December 4, 2010 at 8:14 pm #166522
I have been searching for a solution to control the sharp edges on overlapped rolled steel edging in the landscape. Most projects are not an issue but when dealing with small residential installations, it is still a hazard to little feet or paws.
Any bright ideals?
Thanks in advance.December 4, 2010 at 9:33 pm #166536Nikolaos MillerParticipant
Are the sharp edges being caused by pounding the edging in during install?December 4, 2010 at 9:37 pm #166535
That is a good question to which I don’t have an answer. I am usually not on site during the installs. I’ll have to ask our construction lead.December 4, 2010 at 10:03 pm #166534Nikolaos MillerParticipant
On residential jobs I avoided getting those sharp edges by loosing up the soil with a pick along the path of the edger and putting a wood block on top of the edger to beat on with the hand sledge. This added some time to install it, but we avoided lawsuits due to a pet or kid cutting their feet/paws on it.December 5, 2010 at 12:25 am #166533Dennis J. Jarrard, PLA, CLARBParticipant
A spade cut bed edge reduces your project cost and eliminates your problem all together.December 5, 2010 at 1:41 am #166532
How are you connecting the steel? Are you overlapping it to allow for expansion and reduction for heat or are you solidly connecting?
If you are overlapping, you could cut a 2 or 3″ radius on the upper corners of both strips and grind the edges so that there is no point or cut edge when they move.
I either had them welded or used manufatured edging that were made to connect (back in the day) , so I never did what I just described.December 5, 2010 at 4:38 pm #166531
Thank you Nikolaos. I will have to do some investigating on the current methods of installation.December 5, 2010 at 4:41 pm #166530
yes that is my personal favorite on edging choices… but does not always work as a low maintenence/low cost choice for a separation barrier between sod/mulch, sod/rock, etc. Especially when dealing with slopes.December 5, 2010 at 4:46 pm #166529
Andrew, the edges are currently being overlapped about 6 inches and then rounded U-shaped stakes are used to hold them in place. Welding is not an option as it is too cost prohibitive. Grinding would certainly work, but would also fall on the costly side for this type of application.December 5, 2010 at 5:07 pm #166528Thomas J. JohnsonParticipant
+1 for Spade
or baring that…
+1 for Grind. Flesh will still lose to steel, even if it’s rounded, with enough force, such as kids playing, running, falling on it…
You got me thinking though (always a dangerous situation) and I may have something for you…December 5, 2010 at 5:46 pm #166527Tanya OlsonParticipant
I use trex or other composite bender board instead of steel on projects with animals….December 5, 2010 at 7:36 pm #166526
You are losing me Melanie. Is it the rounded “U-shaped” stakes that are posing the hazard or the right angle at the top end of the steel?
How low is the budget that you can’t take a few minutes to grind the corner down? If it is that low, you really do need to seek an alternative material because the safety issue has to come first.December 5, 2010 at 8:02 pm #166525
Sorry about that… it is the top of the end of the edging itself that is too sharp. I honestly don’t know if it is due to a poor cut in the edging or simply an istallation issue. I will have to find out. I really don’t like the way they look overlapped anyway, so I suppose I am looking for a better solution to the whole finish of this type of edging. A premade cover for the overlap portion only or something similiar.
I agree that safety is primary and that is why I am asking for suggestions. I’m just not too convinced that grinding is THE answer here. Even on small projects, we may be installing several hundred LF. If we were to go back and remove the stakes after installtion at each 10′ interval and grind each corner… sorry, but that just doesn’t seem like a practical answer. It may very well BE the answer… but before I concede, I would just like to know about other options. ( I DO appreciate your help)
I also like Trex benderboard Tanya, but for some odd reason, it just isn’t popular here in Colorado.December 5, 2010 at 8:36 pm #166524
That is a bit of work as a retro-fix, but it really is not too bad for future work. Have you looked at permlok or other manufactured metal edging? It sounds like you are using plain steel strips with hooked stkes to hold them. I’d expect that they will be all over the place between summer heat and freeze/thaw.How has this faired over the years other than the sharp corners?
We’ve always either welded them to rebar set below the edge or used one of the manufactured edges. You pay more for the manufactured stuff, but save on the labor and get good performance out of it.June 6, 2012 at 2:08 pm #166523KimberlyParticipant
I have similar questions and am looking into this: http://www.borderconcepts.com/products/browse/steel-edge-iron-edge. Is it similar to what you have been using that has been producing sharp edges?
I started a thread here because I’m trying to talk my boss into using steel edging on a project, but I’m concerned with safety and so is he.
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